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Route: The North-east Ridge (from the McCormick River valley)
Ray Chipeniuk, Ron Parker and Erik Sheer, 1978, first ascent. from the base camp on the McCormick River
the team ascended
via Gneiss Brook, using ledges high above the right (north) bank to bypass Snowbridge Canyon. They ascended the
north-east ridge over gently stepped bedrock and consolidated talus and reached the parymidal east peak in less
than 5 hours. Ron Parker built a cairn.
Since the west peak appeared to be the higher one, they scrambled and boulder hopped for about a half mile along the
overhanging arête to the "mildly sensational" west peak. The west peak has a dramatic 1200' south-east face composed
of hard grey gneiss. The team estimated that any person in resonably good condition could do the climb in about 5 hours
with minimal exposure or danger from loose rock.
In the opinion of the first ascent team, Margaret Toth affords unparallelled views of Caubvick/d'Iberville, the L1 Glacier,
Ice Blue Tarn, the "incredible" Grape Blue Tarn and all the farther scenery of this special area.
Decent was made via the talus slope on the north side of the connecting arête to Rockbowl Tarn and thence down Gneiss
Brook.
(1978 Torngat Mountain Expedition, A Report to the Newfoundland Dept. of Tourism, Ray Chipeniuk, 1979.)
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