Route: The South-West Ravine
Stephen Loutrel, Elizabeth Loutrel, Michael Adler, Virginia Adler and Warren Hofstra, 7/19/1975, first ascent.
Loutrel et al. sailed in the Lacerta, a 40' Concordia Yawl, from Manchester, Massachusetts to Cape Chidley,
the northern terminus of the Labrador peninsula. On their return trip south they entered Nachvak Fiord and sailed the 20
or so miles west to where the Tallek Arm extends another 8 miles south from the main body of the fiord. They
established a camp at the southern end of the Arm.
From their base camp, the team proceded up a ravine towards the south-east, initially
over rock and then over snow, reaching a pond at around 2000'. Continuing south-east, they climbed the headwall of the
ravine to a broad ridge. The route then proceeds north-east along the broad ridge to the summit. Although
steep at times, the route was non-technical the entire way.
The party noted a variety of extremely technical routes up virtually every other ascent route. To quote Michael
Adler: "The view from the summit is exceptional offering impressive views of the Nachvak Fiord and the other 5000 foot
mountains of the region including d'Iberville to the east. The sheer 3000 foot drop off the north side of
the mountain is quite extrordinary. Several impressive knife edges with large chunks missing and a large glacier
complete the view."
(Loutrel, Stephen, Appalachia,, December 1975)
(Adler, Michael, "Mt. Goetze", CAJ, Vol. 63, 1980)
Route: The South Ridge
Dartmouth College group (Jill Fredston, Jim Mcintyre, John Stix, Steve Thompson, Anna Burack and John Slocum),
7/31/1979, second ascent, first ascent via this route. From their base camp at the head of the valley of a tributary
about 3 miles (5 km) due east of the Palmer River (at UTM 537298), the team scrambled up the steep slope
bearing northeast to a point near a small lake (which lies just west of Wind Gap Tarn) gaining about
1500' of elevation. They then got onto the long ridge leading north to the summit.
John Stix writes "It was exceedingly long and parts were quite steep, with loose rock and all, but for the most part
I enjoyed myself immensely ... Near the top we encountered ice patches and believe it or not, a small group of
caribou ... The summit was not far away and we climbed together to the top ... At the top was a small cairn with
a film canister with two notes. The first recorded the first ascent in 1975 (see above) and the second by Ray
Chipeniuk and Ron Wilson in 1977 (Chipeniuk, RC, "Quebec Pirate Robs Newfoundland of Highest Peak in Torngat Mtns",
CAJ, Vol. 61, 1978). Chipeniuk had given the peak it's name, after the chief
of the Torngat gods. Chipeniuk and Wilson had summited in near zero-visibility. That was a shame, for we could see for
miles - clear as a bell. FANTASTIC DAY!!!"
They returned via the same route, arriving back at their camp at 5:30, having climbed over 4100 vertical feet and
covering about 8 miles of rough terrain in 11 hours.
(John Stix, journal, 1979)
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